Allen Balik’s The Wine Exchange 2/12/26
Looking Back Over 15 Years
The Wine Exchange
February 12, 2026
Today’s column marks my 15th anniversary of writing “The Wine Exchange” for the Napa Valley Register and I am grateful to all my readers who have followed my columns over the years and appreciate the many comments and questions I’ve received from you along the way.
In looking back over my 15-year run, I began to reflect on what has changed and what has remained the same in the world of wine since February 2011. Overall, the changes, especially in the last five years, are striking while what has remained constant has been so for decades, centuries and millennia.
Wine remains the beverage of choice when pairing with a special meal or commemorating important personal, religious and business occasions. Individual growers and vintners continue to govern the scene worldwide, though consolidation and acquisition remain dominant factors.
The last few years have seen a weakening market marked by winery closures, unharvested grapes and the grubbing-up of vineyards. All are playing a significant role in today’s industry realignment.
High quality wines continue to demand premium pricing, but choices at the mid-range of the spectrum have expanded and price alone is no longer the key indicator of excellence. However, wines below $10 are facing maximum adversity after years of positive growth.
Varieties and growing areas of the late 2000s and early 2010s have expanded greatly over the past decade offering consumers far more comprehensive choices in pricing, palate pleasure and as complements to an expanding range of cuisine. The “Power 5” (Cabernet Sauvignon, Chardonnay, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc and Pinot Noir) continue to lead, but the field has become far more diverse, attracting younger generations to the market.
In the late 1970s, Robert Parker and his Wine Advocate introduced the 100-point scale that was later adopted by Wine Spectator, Decanter and other reputable publications. The influence of this grading system greatly altered the market relating to stylistic approach and pricing while also becoming an important marketing tool for producers. It may have recently lost some of its luster, but remains important even though several of its early proponents have retired or become independent over the last 15 years.
Wine Advocate is now owned by Michelin Guide which has also recently announced the launch of “Michelin Grapes” that aims to review wineries on a three-grape scale similar to its famed restaurant publication.
We’ll have to wait and see how that evolves as, among multiple challenges, it will be difficult to grade wineries on their stated goals of viticultural and winemaking protocols, identity and consistency by anonymous inspectors as they do with restaurants.
In 2011 the millennial generation was seen as a welcome audience that would fuel the growth of the wine market as boomers were aging and purchasing less wine. The millennial influence has proven inconsistent ever since. However, new reports indicate they have now overtaken the boomers and represent the largest demographic on the wine scene. They are also upsetting some traditional varietal trends and the historic market structure.
Rather than critics and scores, millennials and those behind them are looking more to social media and influencers for direction. They are exhibiting a disregard of critics and the subjective 100-point system in making their purchasing decisions. With the revered critic’s role being reduced, the search for new and previously unknown wines has accelerated in a shifting market.
Times are definitely changing and choices are rapidly increasing. As a longtime naysayer of the 100-point scale, it is impossible to equate a personal quantitative number in an acknowledged subjective context. I applaud the open-mindedness of this coming demographic as they pursue their own path.
During the 2010s the wine market continued its decades-long growth in both volume and value. Abruptly, this trend was disrupted in 2020 when the pandemic resulted in significant market fluctuations.
The last five years have experienced a drop in consumer demand resulting in inventory back-ups at all levels and reduced production coupled with new competition. The no and low alcohol movement, cannabis infused beverages, ready-to-drink cocktails, and hard seltzers have appealed to younger consumers, negatively impacting the traditional wine market.
Of the Power Five mentioned above, only Sauvignon Blanc showed increased demand in 2025. In a nod back to the 1980s, white wines in general have overtaken reds in sales, and sparklers led by Prosecco are gaining ground. Another indication of younger generations seeking their own discoveries.
Fifteen years ago, rosé was generally thought of as a sweet pink drink and had little impact in the fine wine market. Then dry rosé gained popularity and showed great success through the next decade. However, the pink thirst seems to have leveled off in the 2020s and as a category it remains a somewhat less significant player.
Some of the greatest challenges over the last 15 years are due to the effects of climate change. Hotter and drier conditions around the world have called for numerous unanticipated changes.
Farming practices and long held vineyard regimens have been dramatically altered to combat rapidly evolving conditions such as exploring new varieties in many of the world’s most renowned growing areas. From Vermentino in Australia and world-class sparklers in England to Bordeaux where six previously unauthorized grapes were proposed by growers in 2019 and have now been formally approved with some restrictions by the Institut National de l’Origine et de la Qualité.
Increased attention to stewardship of the land is seen as a major force over the last 15 years. Organic, Biodynamic and Regenerative Organic practices are being broadly employed along with reduced tilling to enhance carbon sequestration. Moderated irrigation patterns and canopy management are now widely accepted in combating the effects of climate change.
Solar panels, recycling of water and other materials, transition to electric vehicles and equipment, reduced bottle weight and other modifications are lessening the carbon footprint in the winery and distribution channels. The entire industry is becoming far more involved in saving the planet with measures not widely practiced just 15 years ago.
The elephant in the room regarding the struggling wine market is the influence of an international neo-prohibitionist and pro-temperance movement led by Movendi International and others. Movendi’s motto is Temperance, Peace and Brotherhood with the aim of creating a world free from the harm of alcohol and other drugs.
This movement exercised its influence on the WHO, several international government agencies, religious orders and the public by rebelling against decades of established scientific research equating moderate alcohol consumption with some health benefits. The U.S. Dietary Guidelines for 2025–2030 rejected the pro-temperance approach, but the groups remain active in many areas.
The recent Silicon Valley Bank 25th Annual U.S. Wine Business Report 2026 was just released with some good news along with notes of caution. Rob McMillan suggests that while wineries must contend with and adapt to current market conditions, there is a brighter future ahead over the next few years.
Wine has been a focal point of meals, religious customs and countless celebrations for 8000 years and nothing on the horizon suggests that will change. But as McMillan explained, the road back must be crafted with market adaptation in mind and will not occur overnight. In the meantime, continue enjoying wine and be sure to savor it with family and friends.
Share your experiences with other readers by commenting on this article with an email to me at
allenbalik@savorlifethroughwine.com.
Allen Balik, a Napa resident, has been a wine collector, consultant, author, fundraiser and enthusiast for more than 40 years.
