Allen Balik’s The Wine Exchange 2/26/26
Character. An essential element for greatness
The Wine Exchange
February 26, 2026
While difficult to precisely define, character is a virtue you’ll surely recognize when you encounter it. John Wooden, the legendary UCLA Bruins basketball coach who took his team to seven straight NCAA Championships (and 10 in 12 years), once expressed the “distinguished” nature of his team by saying, “Winning takes talent, repeating takes character.”
Is the same quest for character true in the world of wine? Absolutely. But it’s not just an individual concept or recognition. It is the interwoven expression of meaningful ingredients that are often difficult to specifically separate and define.
So, let’s take a closer look at these “ingredients” to get a better idea of how character expresses itself in wine.
“Structure” is often related to the core of a physical object such as steel framing in a high-rise building and “balance” is a necessity of life, from standing erect while hiking a steep path to maintaining control in various gymnastic exercises. Other than wine, the mention of “austerity” in most contexts congers up negative images of something we’d rather not embrace, while “character” can take on many diverse connotations from the interpretation of actor’s role to one’s personal value-set.
Some wines exhibiting intense structure may seem a bit hard and off-putting in their youth; but they tend to come around with age, by decanting or with time in the glass. Structure is the roadmap to longevity and also a key in appreciating classic wines from the freshness of youth to their distinctive charm as they evolve over time.
A wine’s structure is easy to appreciate when present and readily noticeable when absent. It goes hand-in-hand with the expression of balance where no component (acidity, fruit, tannin or alcohol) overshadows another but they rather coalesce to present a seamless tapestry of bouquet, flavor and texture.
The same elements found with balance are also integrated with structure, but in this case they work together in helping the wine stand erect, as opposed to collapsing (like a disappointing soufflé) on the palate resulting in a “flabby” ill-defined shape and textual profile.
Acidity and tannin are primarily responsible for the structure, balance and aging potential of red wines while acidity must essentially act alone for whites. Acidity aids in creating the framework while tannins bind it together allowing the wine to stand firmly.
A banker friend once told me, “Austerity is something I’ve always respected in banking and am just learning to appreciate in wine.” I often reflect on this observation as we usually relate austerity more to the negative connotation of the word as defined by Merriam-Webster – “Displaying sour and simple flavors, somber, unadorned, stern or cold” – than to a more positive view of its application to wine.
Austerity is often associated with young dry Riesling, traditional Chablis, classic Sancerre as well as many whites of Spain, Austria and northern Italy to name a few. They proudly exhibit their bracing acidity (think backbone) and restrained forward fruit. Austerity is also seen in reds more in the Old World style such as Barolo, Bordeaux and Burgundy. On release, they display lively acidity, restraint on the nose and palate with boldly structured finely grained tannins (think longevity).
When I encounter an austere wine, I tend to stand back for a minute and contemplate what my senses are telling me as I’m invited into the glass to learn more. This is in direct contrast to “hedonistic” (a term often used by critics – mostly credited to Robert Parker – in describing their 95 plus to 100-pointers), that is an expression best fitting those higher alcohol, fruit-forward examples jumping out of the glass at you, while holding little in reserve to explore, and to many, representing the antithesis of character.
Perhaps there’s an analogy here to the great Alfred Hitchcock and Agatha Christie mysteries compared to the aggressive pyrotechnic excesses often seen in today’s movies. While both sides have their fans, the Hitchcock and Christie stories drew me in as I became part of the experience, yet those over-the-top cinematic efforts overload my senses and leave little to the imagination.
With all the underlying factors taken together, a wine’s character articulates the impeccable interplay of its balance, structure, an identifiable expression of varietal integrity and sense of place (i.e. its origin). Wines displaying these qualities are sure to leave an indelible mark on our vinous memory and the event where they were enjoyed.
Character is best expressed in the first sip and grows internally as the meal progresses. Here, Merriam-Webster refers to character as, “One of the attributes or features that make up and distinguish an individual” and as, “A main or essential nature especially as strongly marked and serving to distinguish.” I look to “distinguish” in both definitions as the key word when I appreciate the character of singular wine.
When tasting, the question I often find myself asking is, “What makes this wine different, exceptional and distinctive?” The subject may become a bit esoteric when we also consider the intriguing, intangible and subjective components while speaking to a wine’s true character. And that’s what distinguishes a particular wine from others not exhibiting the same spark.
Scores, medals, lofty pricing and even the perceived collectability of a specific wine do not speak directly to its expression of character. A beautiful dry rosé or the minerality of a great Chenin Blanc on a warm summer afternoon can certainly inspire a moment of discovery just as can a classic Napa Cabernet, Grand Cru Burgundy or First Growth Bordeaux when serving as the centerpiece of a sumptuous epicurean feast.
In the wine press and among wine lovers, there are many puzzling descriptors often used to express the flavors and aromas one may discover through the tasting process. Unfortunately, the positive sense of character along with its elements of structure, balance and austerity are often omitted leaving us an opportunity to discover and realize these most critical qualities on our own.
And, when found, the experience is a welcome bonus that brings great rewards.
Share your experiences with other readers by commenting on this article with an email to me at
allenbalik@savorlifethroughwine.com.
Allen Balik, a Napa resident, has been a wine collector, consultant, author, fundraiser and enthusiast for more than 40 years.
